From Seoul to Sulaimani: A Review of Suli’s Korean-Kurdish Food

Zuhdya Abdullah

Located near the old campus of Sulaimani University, down a quaint flight of stairs on Iskan Road, lies a hidden culinary gem: a Korean-Kurdish fusion restaurant that surprises unsuspecting passersby. Illuminated by cozy lights and found in front of Smart Hospital, it attracts with an inviting aura that draws you in. This small, cozy establishment is the creation of a passionate entrepreneur who has set out to introduce Kurdish diners to the flavors of Korea.

At first glance, it seemed like just another small market, but upon closer inspection, I discovered a handful of tables outside and a busy cashier inside. The interior was warm, with an affectionate and vibey atmosphere enhanced by the soft glow of lights, colorful decor, and shelves decorated with Manga characters, and frames. Despite its size, the restaurant radiated character, making it a perfect spot for another evening culinary adventure.

After settling in, my companions and I were greeted by a pair of friendly cats, seemingly part of the restaurant staff, adding an extra touch of charm to the place. We were then presented with a neatly designed menu offering a variety of Korean dishes. As we perused the menu, one of us—a fan of deep-fried Korean chicken—was disappointed to find it missing. Nevertheless, we went ahead, deciding on a list of dishes to order.

We chose a large plate of Danmuji (sweet and sour pickled radish), a plate of Teokbokki (spicy rice cakes in a spicy sauce), four pieces of veggie kimbap (one for each of us), four pieces of steamed mandu (Korean dumplings) stuffed with chicken, and four pieces of fried mandu stuffed with meat. Additionally, each of us ordered individual dishes from a variety of Korean-style fried chicken, including chicken honey, chicken KungPao, and sweet and sour chicken, all served with rice. Despite some initial communication challenges with the lone waiter-cashier, we managed to place our order.

As the evening progressed, our excitement grew, but soon we faced an inconvenience – they were out of rice as a side dish for the chickens, a rarity in Kurdish cuisines. As a result, we decided to proceed without rice, although it felt slightly incomplete for those, including me, with Kurdish palates.

Dishes started to arrive, a combination of table dishes and individual orders. However, our excitement was dampened when we learned they were out of honey chicken. After some quick thinking, we settled on hot dogs and Korean fried corn dogs, only to discover that these too were also unavailable. Our disappointment was noticeable, and we ended up sharing what was available, leaving one of us unable to enjoy their preferred choice.

Despite the setbacks, the presentation of the dishes was noteworthy. Each plate, a canvas of dark grey, was adorned with carefully arranged veggies, dipping sauces, and chopsticks that we grabbed ourselves from the cashier table. It was my first encounter with these unique Korean-Kurdish creations, and although most dishes were delightful, the veggie kimbap left much to be desired. Its raw, spice-lacking taste didn’t align with my palate, which craved the bold flavors I’m used to in Kurdish cuisine. Also, we all agreed that the Danmuji lacked its excpected sweet and sour flavor, leaving it as an ordinary seasoned radish that we enjoyed with the main dishes. 

Another surprise awaited us when the Teokbokki, listed as original, arrived in a flat format, deviating from our expectations. Despite the unexpected presentation, it was spicy and chewy, with a thick and flavorful sauce. To satisfy our cravings, one of my friends and I ordered the last available ramen, a spicy chicken-flavored one that brought tears to my eyes due to its intense spicy sauce. The fried chickens, tender and dipped in a thick sauce with veggies and sauces on the sides, met our expectations, making up for the whole rollercoaster of events. Despite our expectation for a soupy texture, the ramen proved otherwise, challenging our assumptions.

Fascinated by the diverse culinary offerings, I interviewed the owner, who shared her inspiring journey from an online cloud kitchen to this physical space, now nearing its first anniversary in January 2024. I learned that while she adheres to Korean cooking fundamentals, which she has adopted in her visits to Korea, she tailors her recipes to suit the Kurdish community’s taste buds, excluding certain ingredients and spices accordingly.

A notable aspect of the restaurant was its kitchen staff, a mix of locals and those trained by the owner herself, showcasing her dedication to her craft. As we settled the bill, we couldn’t help but reflect on the unexpected twists and turns of the evening, ending in a bill of 47,000 IQD, with a discount offered in acknowledgment of the “less-than-perfect” service.

The Korean-Kurdish fusion experience at this Sulaimani restaurant was a rollercoaster of flavors and surprises. While the evening was not without its challenges, the passion of the owner and the unique culinary blend offered a memorable dining adventure. Despite the hiccups, the restaurant’s potential is apparent, leaving me hopeful for a more smooth and satisfying experience in the future. For adventurous food enthusiasts seeking a blend of Korean and Kurdish flavors, this restaurant offers a promising, yet unpredictable, culinary adventure.

Leave a comment